In August 2001, the famous Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander successfully climbed the Korgri Peak (K2, 8611M) and completed his 13th 8,000-meter peak climb in his personal career. He recently announced that he would not climb the last 8000-M mountain - Manasuru Peak. Manasulu, 8163M, 8th), The mountaineering community has many regrets.
Outsiders may be puzzled. He is 44 years old and is at the height of the mountain climb. He is unwilling to complete this recognition as the highest achievement of the mountaineering community. Hans said: "I encountered too many tragedies at Manasulu. I don't want to go back to face my nightmare." - In 1991, Hans and his two friends, Karl Grossrubatscher, climbed the summit of Manasuru with Friedl Mutschlechner. Tragedy at the summit, Hans lost two friends at once. "There are too many mountains to climb in the world. I will continue to climb, but I will not climb Mount Manaslu." Hans said firmly in his hometown press conference.
After climbing K2, Hans almost became the first person to return to the base camp from the top of the mountain. In the past two years, he tried to do the same thing without success. This time, he successfully climbed the summit, but did not complete the summit downhill. He started about 400 meters in height but gave up in the lower part. He said that there is a steep slope of hard ice around 60 degrees near the summit, which is an extremely difficult downhill challenge.
"When I watched a Korean climber and yelled away from a few meters around me, I immediately decided to take off the snowboard and not take risks." But Hans still thinks it is feasible to descend from K2 downhill. "Someone will do it someday, but that person needs superb skills and great luck. But it's not me. I'm 44 years old. Old people can't try and try again. Dreams let young people chase.†But Hans stressed that completing the K2 gliding must be done in a “fair and glorious†way. The tryers must respect the spirit of the pure mountaineer. "I have heard that in recent years, many people rely on snowboards and oxygen for mountaineering, especially the Mount Everest. Even some well-known mountaineers are no exception. Many people who try to climb down the mountain even have snowboards on snowboards. This climbed the Everest into a simple 7,000-metre climb," Hans said.
[ASE comment]
Whether Hans Kammerlander climbs 14 8000M, he is still a great mountaineer. His pursuit of the spirit of pure mountaineering and the abruptness of taking off and on, is worthy of learning by younger generations. Here are some of Hans's records.
Although Hans successfully climbed 13 8000M tiers, Shisha in which the central peak (8012M) is not the main peak (8027M), and today's mountaineering is the main peak as the statistical standard, so if he wants to complete 14 8000M, he Still have to go back and climb the main peak of Shishabanga.
In May 1991, the Italian Manasurulu team climbed a team. The 12-man expedition led by Hans tried to climb the northeastern face of Manasuru. Hans and friends Friedl and Karl three left Camp 2 to try to reach the summit. However, due to poor weather and deep snow, Hans turned around at 7500M. When he returned to CAMP2, he found that friend Karl died not far from C2, Hans and Friedl. As he continued down the mountain, he was trapped in a storm of lightning. Just before the arrival of Camp 1, Friedl was unfortunately killed by the Thunder.
Hans Kammerlander's personal climbing history
1982 - Cho Oyo (South Wall)
1984 - Garschbröm Gaherbrum I & II (Crossed)
1985 - Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri
1985 - Anna Pruna Annapurna (Northwest Wall)
1986 - Makalu Makalu
1986 - Lhotse
1988 - Cerro Torre (17 hours)
1989 - Poincenot
1990 - Nanga Parbat, South Kapaa (Peak Downhill)
1992 - Matterhorn Matterhorn (4 peaks in 24 hours)
1992 - Shivling
1993 - Armada Brown Ama Dablam
1994 - Brohat Broad Peak (7000m slide down)
1996 - Shisha Pangma (7,400 meters slide)
1996 - Everest Everest (Peak Downhill)
1998 - Kanchenjunga (7400 meters slide)
1999 - Chogori K2 (Abandoned due to avalanche risk 150 meters before summit)
1999 - Mutztagh Mutatagh Ata
2000 - Korgori K2 (Unreached)
2001 - Ogre (Unreached)
2001 - Chogori K2 (via Cesen Route)
Outsiders may be puzzled. He is 44 years old and is at the height of the mountain climb. He is unwilling to complete this recognition as the highest achievement of the mountaineering community. Hans said: "I encountered too many tragedies at Manasulu. I don't want to go back to face my nightmare." - In 1991, Hans and his two friends, Karl Grossrubatscher, climbed the summit of Manasuru with Friedl Mutschlechner. Tragedy at the summit, Hans lost two friends at once. "There are too many mountains to climb in the world. I will continue to climb, but I will not climb Mount Manaslu." Hans said firmly in his hometown press conference.
After climbing K2, Hans almost became the first person to return to the base camp from the top of the mountain. In the past two years, he tried to do the same thing without success. This time, he successfully climbed the summit, but did not complete the summit downhill. He started about 400 meters in height but gave up in the lower part. He said that there is a steep slope of hard ice around 60 degrees near the summit, which is an extremely difficult downhill challenge.
"When I watched a Korean climber and yelled away from a few meters around me, I immediately decided to take off the snowboard and not take risks." But Hans still thinks it is feasible to descend from K2 downhill. "Someone will do it someday, but that person needs superb skills and great luck. But it's not me. I'm 44 years old. Old people can't try and try again. Dreams let young people chase.†But Hans stressed that completing the K2 gliding must be done in a “fair and glorious†way. The tryers must respect the spirit of the pure mountaineer. "I have heard that in recent years, many people rely on snowboards and oxygen for mountaineering, especially the Mount Everest. Even some well-known mountaineers are no exception. Many people who try to climb down the mountain even have snowboards on snowboards. This climbed the Everest into a simple 7,000-metre climb," Hans said.
[ASE comment]
Whether Hans Kammerlander climbs 14 8000M, he is still a great mountaineer. His pursuit of the spirit of pure mountaineering and the abruptness of taking off and on, is worthy of learning by younger generations. Here are some of Hans's records.
Although Hans successfully climbed 13 8000M tiers, Shisha in which the central peak (8012M) is not the main peak (8027M), and today's mountaineering is the main peak as the statistical standard, so if he wants to complete 14 8000M, he Still have to go back and climb the main peak of Shishabanga.
In May 1991, the Italian Manasurulu team climbed a team. The 12-man expedition led by Hans tried to climb the northeastern face of Manasuru. Hans and friends Friedl and Karl three left Camp 2 to try to reach the summit. However, due to poor weather and deep snow, Hans turned around at 7500M. When he returned to CAMP2, he found that friend Karl died not far from C2, Hans and Friedl. As he continued down the mountain, he was trapped in a storm of lightning. Just before the arrival of Camp 1, Friedl was unfortunately killed by the Thunder.
Hans Kammerlander's personal climbing history
1982 - Cho Oyo (South Wall)
1984 - Garschbröm Gaherbrum I & II (Crossed)
1985 - Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri
1985 - Anna Pruna Annapurna (Northwest Wall)
1986 - Makalu Makalu
1986 - Lhotse
1988 - Cerro Torre (17 hours)
1989 - Poincenot
1990 - Nanga Parbat, South Kapaa (Peak Downhill)
1992 - Matterhorn Matterhorn (4 peaks in 24 hours)
1992 - Shivling
1993 - Armada Brown Ama Dablam
1994 - Brohat Broad Peak (7000m slide down)
1996 - Shisha Pangma (7,400 meters slide)
1996 - Everest Everest (Peak Downhill)
1998 - Kanchenjunga (7400 meters slide)
1999 - Chogori K2 (Abandoned due to avalanche risk 150 meters before summit)
1999 - Mutztagh Mutatagh Ata
2000 - Korgori K2 (Unreached)
2001 - Ogre (Unreached)
2001 - Chogori K2 (via Cesen Route)
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