Simplified Chinese version of "Mountaineering Bible": Snow slope downhill

Snow slope downhill (from page 335-340)

To know if a man's skill in climbing a snow mountain is brilliant, it is one of the indicators to see if he is efficient and confident when he goes down. Many of the courageous climbers who were originally able to climb down the steep snow valley are frightened. Why? Because the eyes are endless, and because of the steep snow slope, the hail must be inserted very low to climb down, and this posture and the hail grip are not as safe as the climbers. In fact, as long as you are skilled in a few downhill skills, you can reduce your anxiety about the downhill:

Step by step

When you are going downhill, there is no difference between going up and downhill. The skill you use depends on the hardness and angle of the snow. If it is a soft, soft slope with a gentle slope, you can just go with the face facing you; if it is snow, The ground is harder and steeper, so use Plung-Stepping (Figure 13-23).

Stepping forward is a bold step with confidence. Face outward, step backwards to step out of the snow slope, firmly with the heel to the ground, the legs should be straight, the weight stable to a new position, the foot must not be afraid of shrinking. Try not to put your back on the slope of the snow, so as not to pay attention to, or to prevent an accidental slip. You can stand firm with your heel, but if the footsteps are too shallow, most climbers will feel very unsteady.

Do not straighten your knees as you step and follow your knees to maintain balance. The degree of bending depends on the steep slope (the steeper the slope, the greater the knee bend) and the firmness of the snow (the harder the snow, the greater the camber). With the knees bent, leaning forward can also help balance. When you step out boldly, your footsteps will step deeper, so watch out for the soft snow so that when you step out of the next step, you can't step forward and step deep into the snow. Injured.

As the climber is stepping on his feet, he must hold the hail in one hand (falling or slipping or self-assured). When the hail's pick is close to the ground, he is leaning forward and is ready to insert it into the snow. You can open or move the other two arms to maintain balance. Some climbers use their hands to hold the hailstones to make a full slide-off posture—a pair of hands grasping the hail's head while the other hand is holding the end of the broom handle — but it is more difficult for the arms to make big moves. maintain balance.

In some places, such as on harder or steeper slopes, it is not safe to do this stepping. At this time, the body must make a slide to ensure the movement, insert the hail as low as possible into the snow before each step, and step on the feet with a crouching variant (Figure 13-24). .

Downhill

Gliding is one of the extra pleasures of mountaineering. It is the fastest, easiest, and most enjoyable method for walking climbers down the slopes. It is an alternative to walking or stepping. Suitable for snow that you can master speed. There are three main methods of downhill, which are the softness and hardness of the snow slope, the safety at the end of the downhill slope, and whether your downhill skills are smart.

Before descending, decide whether or not to use a hailstone wristband. If you decide to use your wrist, you risk taking the hailstorm and causing you to hurt when it slides away from you. And if you decide not to use your wrist, your risk is that you may lose hail. Whether you use a wrist or not, the most important thing is to master your hail.

Sitting down: (Figure 13-25a)

It is the easiest to learn, and it is suitable for soft snow that will fall into the snow if you use a stand-off. Pull off the crampons before you fall, because the claws of the crampons will catch the snow and trip you. If you wear nylon rain pants, you will slide the most smooth and dry. The so-called sitting downhill, as long as sitting on the snow to slide down, at the same time to seize the hail with self-slip grip method on the line. The standard posture is sitting straight, with both knees bent and the sole of the boot against the surface of the snow. However, it is helpful to slide your legs in a soft snow and keep your legs out. This will help you spread your weight over a larger area.

Then slide the hail handle along the snow on your side, just like paddling. Hold your hands on the hailstones. Pay attention to mastering; applying pressure on the shank tip helps reduce speed, while keeping your body from rolling down the hill.

Flat knees and flat feet can also reduce speed. This posture is most useful in uncomfortable situations, such as snow iced or hard frozen, with ice grooves or small snow cups, covered with "rocks or bushes. This posture than you put your legs in Straight out to the front to be more stable and easier to grasp, while allowing your hips to minimize wear and tear.

If you want to stop, you can use the hail's shank to slow down the speed, and then force the heel to the snow - not at the speed of decline, otherwise the consequences will be a backing onion, if you want to emergency car, just put the body towards Turn the opposite side of the shank over to make a slip braking action (slide braking techniques are discussed in the next section of this chapter).

It is simply impossible to turn when sitting down. Use the shank tip as a paddle, and at the same time with the twist of the body, you can only change the direction of a few degrees at most. The best way to deal with obstacles is to stop and walk from one side to a place that will not slide directly into the obstacles, and then slip again.

Stand-off:

If you know the right way and are in the normal situation, a stoppage (Figure 13-25b) is the best way. This posture is the easiest to handle, and you can see the danger on the road at the earliest, and your clothes will not get wet and worn out. Stand-offs work best on hard, snowy slopes that cover soft snow. The softer the snow, the steeper the slope needs to be to maintain speed. You can also make a stand downhill on a hard snow slope, but these slopes usually have to be gentler and the slopes should be safe at the end of the slope. If the snow is hard enough and the slope is extremely slow, you may wish to use the skating method.

The correct stop-down and ski-down skills are very similar: legs are squat, knees are crouching, and both arms are open. Feet can be separated or separated, depending on the needs of stability, one foot is not only more stable, but also can prevent the body from falling down. Tighten your feet and push your body forward beyond your feet to increase speed. As for slowing down or stopping, there are several methods: stand up and step on the heels; turn your feet to the sides and slowly stop at the edges; crouch down and forcefully press on the handle of the hail. A squat rappelling technique (described later) or a turn-around action similar to skiing, where the shoulders, upper body, and knees are turned in the direction of the flip, and the knees and ankles are all twisted in the same direction. The weight of the feet falls on the edge of the boot.

There are many pitfalls in the transition zone, that is, in areas where snow structures change. If you come across a softer, slower downhill slope, your head and body will suddenly surpass your legs, and you have to hurry out One foot to step forward for balance. If you run into a harder, faster-slope snow slope or ice beneath the surface, the body should tip over more to prevent slipping. It is controlled with general braking and crossing skills.

Semi-circular slide-down: (Fig. 13-25c)

In addition to the climber's hail, he should grab himself on one side of the body with a self-slipping grip. The body should sit back and forcefully drag the shank outside the snow. The rest is similar to the squat. This posture is slower than the stand-off, it is easier to learn, and it is more stable because of three contacts. However, it is more difficult to control the speed when turning and to control the side.

And hiking is just the same, and it is necessary to have a smooth downhill. It is also necessary to mix and match several techniques smoothly. Especially those who are inexperienced in downhill tricks tend to use blending methods: they convert into stepping pace to control the speed; they do not do the ski-like turning movements, but step into the new direction of travel, and use the ice-skating when the gradient is gradually decreasing. The way to maintain the focus.

Downhill can cause major accidents. Do not slide down on snow-covered terrain, but use it only at the end of a downhill slope where safety is good and close enough so that if your slip falls out of control before reaching the end, you will not be injured. Unless you can view the entire slide, you must take great care to lead the team in the downhill slide and stop at the top of the terrain. If you are out of control at high speeds and you are unable to self-defense, the risk is greatest at this time, and this situation is most likely to occur on snow slopes that are most suitable for downhill, that is, on hard snow slopes. Your speed and hail have to be mastered at all times.

Before starting the slide, adjust the equipment and put crampons and other hard objects into your backpack. Wear thick leather gloves even when the weather is warm, because the temperature of the snow is low and it is easy to grind and scrape. When you hold the hand of the hail loose, it may have been frozen off by the snow.

Sometimes in the soft snow, people who slide down accidentally take the snow from the surface with a big chunk, and people sit on it all the way down. This kind of snow is actually a small avalanche called Avalanche Cushions. The question is, do you have to believe that this snow block is a safe cushion? Or will it soon become a serious avalanche? If this moving block of snow is more than a few inches thick, self-braking is useless because the hail cannot be inserted into the clouds below it. Sometimes the hail's shank might get into the snow and slow people's speed, but it may not stop the slide. Unless you are certain that this snow mat is safe and you have mastered the speed, you have to get out of it: the body rolls to the side, leaves the path of the snow block, and then makes a slip braking.

Climb down to the mountain

On steep slopes, you may think that it is not safe to go downhill or to follow. You can face a steep slope, climb backwards and out, and kick your steps directly toward the slope. At this time, grab the hailstone in both hands and use it to fix yourself.

Slip braking

The most important thing for snow marching is to learn some basic techniques that can prevent slipping or falling. This is roughly the same as the considerations for mountaineering safety. However, if you really slip in the snow, you must know how to re-stabilize the body as soon as possible. Self-assurance is your primary prevention skill in the snow, so as not to slip out of your feet, it becomes an uncontrollable fall; and slip braking is the primary measure to regain your stability in the event of a fall.

Some climbers regard slip braking as the primary technology of snow safety and do not attach importance to self-assurance skills. However, the purpose of these two techniques is different, and for climbers, in fact, both are necessary. In the terrain where the hailstone can be stably inserted, self-assurance is often enough to immediately stop slipping, but when self-assurance is ineffective and you start to slip off the snow slope at a high speed, you have to quickly make a slip braking.

If the consequences of your fall are likely to be serious injuries or death, you must have good judgment before entrusting your safety to slid braking skills. Here are some safety rules that you must keep in mind:

Do not fall. Use the appropriate snow marching techniques described earlier in this chapter to maintain balance - including breaks and kicks, and with the insertion of hailstones. You can practice these techniques to cultivate confidence in different snow conditions.

Always pay attention to the terrain at the end of the slope. Is there a cliff at the bottom of the slope? Is there not a lot of rocks at the end of the distance? If you can't see it, make the worst assumption.

If the end is very dangerous, do not rely on self-braking skills. And if you are confident about downhill self-assurance techniques that don't sound like you were uphill, you can arrange devices to ensure point-of-sight technology, or turn around to find alternative paths. Hiking in the snow is a matter of protecting yourself with proper equipment, such as sharp hooks and snowboards.

Pay attention to the snow conditions and slopes on the slope. If the snow hardens or becomes iced, put on crampons if necessary and break ice to make steps. Always consider whether there is a need for protective measures; slipping and braking on hard and steep slopes is unlikely to be effective.

Always be alert to the overall situation of the climbing partner and climbing ability. If it is near night, the climber will be greatly exhausted and his reaction time to falls will be greatly reduced.

If you must stop on an empty snow slope to adjust equipment, such as putting on crampons, first secure your hail firmly into the snow and secure it with a safe spot.

Wear gloves when climbing over steep slopes. In case you fall, gloves can not only prevent friction, but also increase your chance to hold the hail and make a successful fall brake.

If you are carrying a backpack to spend the night, be extra careful. The heavy backpack on your body may cause an imbalance, making it difficult for you to hold on.

If it is necessary to do a slip braking, the action must be bold and rapid, so as not to increase your gravity to the point where it cannot stop.

Good posture or permission to meet the visual beauty, but at the critical moment of immediate action, action is more important than elegant.

If you and your rope team's partners slip down the slope, slipping off braking skills will also allow you to stay firmly in the snow and help you stop the slide. The use of this technique is very important for the rope team that travels on the glacier because the slip braking can be used to prevent other teammates from falling into the glacier crevice (see Chapter 14 “Glacier Movement and Glacier Fractures” ".)

Since the personal life of climbers and the lives of other teammates may be tied to the skills of braking off, each climber must be skilled. To learn to slip braking skills, you can practice on steep slopes and hard snow, but be safe at the end. During the practice, remove the wrist hailstone wristband to reduce the chance of the hail accidentally escaping from your hand, and to wrap or cover the hail's flat file and handle so as not to injure yourself.

The strength is obviously helpful for slip braking, but it is more important to use DeFa rather than relying on muscle brute force. The way you hold the hailstone is an important consideration. In other words, it depends on whether you are using a sluggish grip or a self-assured grip (see Figure 13-15). If you are using a self-assurance grip and the result is slipping, be sure to try to immediately convert the hail to a slipping grip: grab the handle slightly above the tip of the hail and press the handle to change it to a self-braking grip. Act, then slip. This action requires practice. If you lack the skills or confidence to do this action, then you can use the grip of falling brakes to grab the head of the hail to make sure that you are sure to slide off. This will be safer. Some climbers just like to use a grip that slides off the brakes.

Compilation proofreader special note: This article is compiled from the Taiwan version of "Mountaineering Bible", content for the mountain friends reference, not for commercial use. Hereby inform.

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